Hair is a filament biomaterial (made of long chains of proteins, interacting with biological systems), which grows from the follicles located in the dermis (middle layer) of the skin. It is made up of keratin, which is a fibrous structure protein.
The entire human body except the palms and feet are covered in hair follicles.
Each strand consists of three layers: cuticle, medulla and cortex.
The cuticle is the outer layer. It is made up of cells like hard syrup that overlap each other. It is made up of dead cells that have changed to scale. The goal is to protect the inner layer and give the hair strength. The shape of the cuticle, determines how healthy your hair is. The shiny, shiny hair has a cuticle attached to the bottom. In damaged hair, the scales are raised. You can smooth out the cuticles by using gentle heat (like towels wrapped around your head after you leave the bathroom) or hair-based products (many hair products contain citric acid, etc.). Highly alkaline products are exactly the opposite, and they raise the cuticle.
The next layer, in the center, is the cortex, which forms most of the hair. Melanin, which is a pigment of color, is located here in the cortex. They determine the color of the hair fibers, based on how many are there and what type. The shape of the hair follicle determines the shape of the cortex, thus determining if the hair is straight, curly, or curly. The cortex also holds water, and is packed with keratin protein. The process of coloring, perm / straight, or any other style all takes place in the cortex. The inner layer is called the medulla, although some people (with fine hair) have no medulla. The purpose is still unknown.
Hair color is generally classified by numbers 1-10. Level 1 is generally black, while level 10 is generally brown.
The combined natural hair colors are a combination of the three main colors: Red, Yellow and Blue. The two main chemicals found in permanent hair color are hydrogen peroxide, and ammonia (which is why the color harms your hair). Ammonia works by separating the cuticle scale. Peroxide helps to oxidize pigments. When the hair color penetrates the cortex, it produces a new pigment molecule, which is too large to exit the cortex. This is why it's hard to pick a color, once you've entered it.
Hair whitening is the same process. Peroxide softens and lifts the cuticle and then bleaches (soften) disperses the color molecules found in the cortex.
There are different levels of peroxide. 5V and 10V (vol = volume) are deposits only. You will use it to store darker colors (like black) and they work by simply lifting the cuticle a little. 20V lifts up to 2 levels and colors deposit. This is the most commonly used peroxide. 30V lifts up to 3 levels and 40V lifts up to 4 levels. You won't see 40V used often. It is usually only used with high-rise blondes and bleaches, but it can damage your hair and can burn your scalp if used properly.
Now, back to the primary colors ...
The three main colors, as I said before, are red, blue and yellow. The three secondary colors are orange (red + yellow), green (blue + yellow) and purple (blue + red). Take a look at how the color wheel is provided, as it is done this way on purpose. The color directly across the color, is a free color. Free colors can enhance or neutralize one another. For example, when you break your hair, it usually ends up with a pale yellow tone. To get yellow, you tone your hair with a purple-based toner to make it platinum-blonde. This is why many "blond" shades are purple. If your hair is orange, you should emulate it with a gray (blue) toner.
Toner is basically a pigment for your hair tone after its whitening. I highly recommend hair toning after whitening, as it looks more finished. There are many different types of toners. You can tone gray hair, platinum blonde, neutral, strawberry blonde, etc.
Let's say your hair was bleached but you decided to return it to brown. You need to re-pigment your hair first. If you don't, the color will be really ashy / greyish and fade to look. For the pigment (fill) of the hair, you want to use a red / gold color one lighter than the desired color. I use Paul Mitchell colors and there are different formulas you can use depending on your target level. For PM, you will mix the same part of the formula with the 10V developer, and apply it to damp hair. You process for 10 minutes and then apply the target color to the pigmentation formula again (unless the target formula is cool / neutral, you will remove the pigmentation formula). Process the whole thing for an additional 35 minutes.
Next, I will come in a variety of colors: The color can hold your hair up to 3 levels, generally and last longer. High lifts will raise hair about 4 levels. The color lasts about 4-6 weeks and will wash off eventually, leaving no roots. The temporary color usually covers the shaft, without penetrating the cortex, so it does not require developers. If done correctly, this should take a few weeks. Older women use a lot of rinsing, which is a temporary color that will only be washed the next time they wash their hair.
The most important thing to know about color, which most people don't know, is
COLORS WILL BE RIGHT NOW
This basically means that if your hair is dark brown, and you want it to be light brown, you need to have your hair shiny before it gets the color you want. I hear clients talk about this at work ALL the time. They are confused because they try to shave their own hair lighter and but it only gets darker. Now consider all that I have taught you so far. If your hair already has dark color molecules in the cortex, and you put other colors on it, all you have to do is store more color molecules in your cortex, which is why it's darker. The color will lift the hair, but not the hair.
Now I'll tell you how the perms and straighteners work. You always explain before doing the perm, as it will help build and treat the hair. Even if the hair is wet, you roll it into a roller (the same width as the curl result will be). You then apply a perm solution to each perm-rod and let it process. The perm solution is generally made from thioglycolate ammonium. This solution breaks down the disulfide bond in your hair (which is the protein that forms your hair.) Once you have processed it, you rinse the perm solution and apply a neutralizer. Neutralizer rebuild disulfide bond in a new form of perm rod. Voila! Now you have curly hair! Straighteners usually do the same, except they make your hair straight instead of curly.
Well, I hope you learn something new and interesting about hair! There are so many other interesting things to learn and I'll write about them the next day!
Have you ever been to a beauty school? I always love to hear new things, so if you want to add anything to this article, please comment.
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